So I have not just one but four airbrushes. I've never used an airbrush. Um. Actually I have five but one of them is going to be sold when I get around to it. So I don't count it.
I got the airbrush bug mostly for priming stuff so I don't have to be dependent on the weather and deal with aerosol fumes. Then I started seeing all the very nice things they can do with practice and foresight. Therefore I thought airbrushes were good things.
I didn't take into account my limited space. I really didn't. But I'm working around that. Or working in it. Whatever the phrase I'm still moving forward.
I have all the minis to paint for the dungeon crawl. I kind of neglected to think about that while I focused on printing up the dungeon. Whoops. Since these are full adventuring parties I need sixteen minis painted. Plus the three NPCs. I got them at the convention and they've sat in the bag since I got them home.
I ordered new triggers for all the airbrushes to make them more comfortable to use. Over Christmas I replaced the triggers on all four of them. I'm rather proud of that. I also took the time to completely disassemble each one and put it back together so I had that under my belt. All of them have the quick connect adapters as well. It's now a pretty sweet setup. Final triumph is that they all fit into the plastic bin I had gotten for airbrush stuff.
Last week I spent the time to find them, double check I had the right ones, carefully placed them in their parties, cleaned them up, assembled them, based them, glued them to 'bottle caps', sand based them, and added the gesso to the sand bases to glue it all in place. Overall they're ready to go.
Then I pulled out the air compressor for the first time and it does sit nicely on the kitchen counter where I planned to put it. Check.
I attached the pressure regular and moisture trap. I may have to use thread tape on it but for now it's attached. Check.
I looked for the air hose I bought that's brand specific and has the matching quick connect adapter. Um. No. Can't find it. And the search begins...
I looked for literally hours last night with no joy. I gave up and sulked. I also thought about where I could have put the stupid thing. There was a brief time when I thought about ordering a new hose and adapter but stopped myself because I don't NEED another one and can't use another one. That and they're not cheap.
Today I didn't get to looking again until later in the evening and dug through a lot of stuff. Finally, tucked away in a canvas bag, I found the stupid thing. Once I found it I realized that it was in the carry bag from when I took a fairly useless airbrush class at a regional game store. The airbrush was put away, the hose wasn't.
Check! Air hose on the compressor. Again it may need thread tape and I'll deal with that if needed. I know where the thread tape is.
The final thing was the photo tent I got to use as booth. I do have a portable booth but that thing is large and a pain to set up. I don't need heavy filtration for acrylic. A note on that later. The photo tent is one that folds down like the car sunscreens do so it's perfect for my space.
Except that it's not. I didn't think to measure so it's far too large to fit into the space I've allocated for a spray booth. Sigh. I needed a YouTube video to show me how to fold it back up (twist it all into the center and squish) and then I measured the space, converted inches to centimeters, and ordered the correct size. I'll figure out a use for the larger one at some point.
By the time all this happened it was way too late to consider doing anything. It was too late when I found the air hose. However I could continue to get it set up and that's how I found out about the photo tent.
Tomorrow I will be using a cardboard box as my spray booth because I have a very large number of them sitting in my living room waiting for a new home. There has to be one in an appropriate size in there. It's not perfect but it's better than a piece of posterboard or something.
Had I not found the air hose tonight I was going to use aerosol primer on the minis because I couldn't wait any longer. Now I can use the airbrush and I may even try putting down skin base tones with it as well. Those are always the first layer of paint and if I overspray badly it won't matter. I need to learn to do this and the best way is to just do it.
Ok. Some notes here. The 'bottle caps' are actually 3D printed ones that are supposed to fit the painting handle I haven't printed yet. It's a knock off of the Citadel one and was designed to fit these caps. The good news is that I can print as many of the darn caps and handles as I want. If they work.
I do have some other ones that use bottle caps and are on spools but I like this one better. While most people only have one that's because theirs cost a lot of money. Mine just take some printer time and a little filament. Plus I can print all the caps I need.
Saturday, December 29, 2018
Churn Baby Churn
This poor printer is just running through kilometers of filament churning out dungeon pieces. I am personally very tired of grey filament. Very, very tired.
There should be two printers doing this, halving the time, but my other one is still down waiting for the replacement board I ordered this week. They haven't even shipped it. Sure, they're blaming the holidays but I need the stupid board. The printer is a doorstop without it.
And then I had a clog that was resistant to the normal methods of removal. It was kind of cool to see the filament extruding in two streams instead of one but that's not really the point. For the first time I used the acupuncture needle they include with the kit to try to move whatever little piece of gunk that was in the way to a place I could remove it.
Then it was a few rounds of cleaning out the nozzle (look up 'atomic pull' for the details) and then it looked like it was good. Although I didn't see the piece of whatever in the cleaning filament.
I 'lost' about twelve hours of printing because of this. I could have tried to clear it last night after the print finished but I was too darn tired to trust myself with printer maintenance. I know better. I'll give up the time to make sure I do it right. This morning I was there, swearing at the printer, doing maintenance.
I should do some calibration again and I think I'll do that when the other printer is ready to go. I will calibrate them both at the same time and then it's off to the races. At least off to 'printing the rest of the dungeon pieces'.
I have the lights for an LED torch wall section but I'm iffy on doing it now. At least I'm iffy on doing it for the convention dungeon. I have a legitimate reason. Hear me out.
The piece is rather clever. The part where the torches are is a separate piece you print in transparent orange (or yellow or whatever) and then there's holes in the back where you shove the mini LEDs. Overall it's a very efficient design using an off-the-shelf light string and battery holder. But here's the catch. That entire panel of torches is out of the transparent filament. So there's this line of orange in the middle of the stone.
This isn't a problem with the addition of that thing called 'paint'. But as of now I don't think I'll have time to paint it before the convention and I don't want to bring it primed because then there's fingerprints on the primer and I don't know how the rest of the paint will adhere. Right now it's all a consistent light grey. To use the LED torch walls I would have to paint the orange sections at least and then they'd stand out just as much as if they were still orange.
It's something I'm pondering. Once I find my airhose for the compressor (dammit I hate losing things) then I can figure out how long it would take to paint this. I can practice on scatter. I plan on using the primer as the main color and then just accenting it with some random bricks and overall drybrushing. And then there's varnishing. So it takes time. Time I could be spending painting the darn minis.
I might have to give up on the airbrush for priming and either use the rattle can or paint it on. I want to use the airbrush but I don't want to waste too much time looking for the missing hose. And before anyone suggests it I want this hose for a reason. It's brand specific so it's threaded properly, it's a braided hose so it's more flexible, and it has the quick disconnect adapter attached to match the quick disconnect adapter on all my airbrushes. It's not cost effective or useful at all to buy another hose and adapter. I'll look more tonight and if not tomorrow I bring out the rattle can and be annoyed.
There should be two printers doing this, halving the time, but my other one is still down waiting for the replacement board I ordered this week. They haven't even shipped it. Sure, they're blaming the holidays but I need the stupid board. The printer is a doorstop without it.
And then I had a clog that was resistant to the normal methods of removal. It was kind of cool to see the filament extruding in two streams instead of one but that's not really the point. For the first time I used the acupuncture needle they include with the kit to try to move whatever little piece of gunk that was in the way to a place I could remove it.
Then it was a few rounds of cleaning out the nozzle (look up 'atomic pull' for the details) and then it looked like it was good. Although I didn't see the piece of whatever in the cleaning filament.
I 'lost' about twelve hours of printing because of this. I could have tried to clear it last night after the print finished but I was too darn tired to trust myself with printer maintenance. I know better. I'll give up the time to make sure I do it right. This morning I was there, swearing at the printer, doing maintenance.
I should do some calibration again and I think I'll do that when the other printer is ready to go. I will calibrate them both at the same time and then it's off to the races. At least off to 'printing the rest of the dungeon pieces'.
I have the lights for an LED torch wall section but I'm iffy on doing it now. At least I'm iffy on doing it for the convention dungeon. I have a legitimate reason. Hear me out.
The piece is rather clever. The part where the torches are is a separate piece you print in transparent orange (or yellow or whatever) and then there's holes in the back where you shove the mini LEDs. Overall it's a very efficient design using an off-the-shelf light string and battery holder. But here's the catch. That entire panel of torches is out of the transparent filament. So there's this line of orange in the middle of the stone.
This isn't a problem with the addition of that thing called 'paint'. But as of now I don't think I'll have time to paint it before the convention and I don't want to bring it primed because then there's fingerprints on the primer and I don't know how the rest of the paint will adhere. Right now it's all a consistent light grey. To use the LED torch walls I would have to paint the orange sections at least and then they'd stand out just as much as if they were still orange.
It's something I'm pondering. Once I find my airhose for the compressor (dammit I hate losing things) then I can figure out how long it would take to paint this. I can practice on scatter. I plan on using the primer as the main color and then just accenting it with some random bricks and overall drybrushing. And then there's varnishing. So it takes time. Time I could be spending painting the darn minis.
I might have to give up on the airbrush for priming and either use the rattle can or paint it on. I want to use the airbrush but I don't want to waste too much time looking for the missing hose. And before anyone suggests it I want this hose for a reason. It's brand specific so it's threaded properly, it's a braided hose so it's more flexible, and it has the quick disconnect adapter attached to match the quick disconnect adapter on all my airbrushes. It's not cost effective or useful at all to buy another hose and adapter. I'll look more tonight and if not tomorrow I bring out the rattle can and be annoyed.
Monday, December 24, 2018
The One Page Backstory, Explained
When I run games I limit the backstory a player can write to one page, 12 point font, 1 inch margins. Yes, I know players. I also add the caveat that there be no tropes.
Why do I do this? Why do I limit my players' creativity and ability to tell me the full story of their character? Why don't I let them use certain story elements? Let me tell you.
I'm not limiting them as much as making them think in a certain way. I start my games a low levels so there shouldn't be a lot of time to have a story anyway. I want to know where they came from and why they're out adventuring. That's really it. Everything from there will be developed as the game progresses.
Why don't I allow tropes? Because they're cop outs. They're what players use when they don't want to make fully fleshed out characters. Saying you're out for vengeance on a race because they killed your family isn't really original and it has no depth. Find a story that will work out in 'the real world' of adventuring. Give your character some originality.
Another reason for this is I don't allow players' backstories to drive the game. So no major plot points are allowed in backstories. You're not searching for your family's stolen signet ring. You're not looking for your long lost brother. You're not railroading the game to focus on you. Sure you can have those things in the backstory but don't expect me to run the game so you can achieve them. I have other players there who don't give a darn about your little drama.
I do read the backstories. I try very hard to weave them into the game. I give bonuses and/or items to players to fit in with what they would have had when they walked into the game. If they're going to write it I'm going to read it. Which is another reason I want them kept short. I have enough to do without wading through pages and pages of self-aggrandizing story that the player will expect to have integrated into the game.
So think about that if you're starting up a new game and starting players at lower levels. Let them give a sketch of their history and make a painting at the table.
Why do I do this? Why do I limit my players' creativity and ability to tell me the full story of their character? Why don't I let them use certain story elements? Let me tell you.
I'm not limiting them as much as making them think in a certain way. I start my games a low levels so there shouldn't be a lot of time to have a story anyway. I want to know where they came from and why they're out adventuring. That's really it. Everything from there will be developed as the game progresses.
Why don't I allow tropes? Because they're cop outs. They're what players use when they don't want to make fully fleshed out characters. Saying you're out for vengeance on a race because they killed your family isn't really original and it has no depth. Find a story that will work out in 'the real world' of adventuring. Give your character some originality.
Another reason for this is I don't allow players' backstories to drive the game. So no major plot points are allowed in backstories. You're not searching for your family's stolen signet ring. You're not looking for your long lost brother. You're not railroading the game to focus on you. Sure you can have those things in the backstory but don't expect me to run the game so you can achieve them. I have other players there who don't give a darn about your little drama.
I do read the backstories. I try very hard to weave them into the game. I give bonuses and/or items to players to fit in with what they would have had when they walked into the game. If they're going to write it I'm going to read it. Which is another reason I want them kept short. I have enough to do without wading through pages and pages of self-aggrandizing story that the player will expect to have integrated into the game.
So think about that if you're starting up a new game and starting players at lower levels. Let them give a sketch of their history and make a painting at the table.
Friday, December 21, 2018
The Doorstop and The Dungeon
My original 3D printer is still a doorstop. The controller board is bad. I'm in communication with the manufacturer since the printer itself is out of warranty but the board failed during the upgrade. I'd like them to cover at least some of the cost of replacement if they won't cover the whole cost. We'll see how it plays out.
The other printer has been chugging along just fine. I had planned on twice the output because I'd have twice the number of printers but that's life. I'm running it almost 24/7 and it hasn't complained.
Slowly but surely I'm getting the pieces I need for my new modular dungeon. They're all printed in grey so even if I can't paint them in time they won't look that bad on the table. I'd like to paint them if possible. I even ordered a big bottle of the primer I want to use with the airbrush when I ordered some other things during their pre-holiday sale. That bottle should easily cover the entire dungeon and then some.
I also set up the new print server for the new printer. I finally printed a case for it that attaches to the frame. My previous one was just kind of sitting on the table and I think I broke the power connection because it wasn't secure. I have to exchange the memory card and I think I'll give this a try as-is because the new case is really steady on the frame so the power cable won't move around much.
I haven't set up the cameras yet because I'm waiting for both printers to be in place so I can get it all in order. I have the lamps I wanted so there could be enough light for good time lapse videos and I think I know what camera stands I'll be printing. I may print out a sample of that to see if it needs adjusting or if it will work as designed. I also have to make sure that I have the proper length cables for them. So much to set up but then it's done.
I ordered spare parts for the printers and will be ordering more from the manufacturer when I get my board. I have to pay for the overseas postage anyway (unless they cover it for me, which would be acceptable) and the things I added didn't increase the cost. They're parts I may never need but if I do I can be up and running again soon. The ones from Amazon will be here in a few days. All this means is that I need a box I can put on the shelf under the printer.
The dungeon itself is looking quite good. At least the pieces are. I haven't tried to assemble any of it yet. Honestly I've been working on getting enough of them printed. 3D printing takes time. Just to print nine of the corner pieces takes 37 1/2 hours. Nine of the single walls take around 25 hours. Note that these are attached to floor tiles so that adds time. Printing nine floor tiles takes 12 hours. It all adds up.
Mind you I'm doing different levels of the pieces at different layer heights. The stuff that doesn't matter as much - the things that don't have a top surface - I'm printing at the thickest layers the printer nozzle will handle. But doing that on the flat, textured layers means they look terrible. So I change those to be very thin layers. Thinner layers means longer prints. I weighed it out and I'd rather spend the time up front and have pieces I like rather than go faster and be unhappy with how they look.
I'll do a post just on the dungeon setup itself when there's more to talk about. Right now it's all about printing the pieces that go into it. I may do the math at the end for how much time and how much filament went into making the pieces since that's kind of interesting.
There's been some discussion on how 3D printed dungeons compare to Hirst Arts dungeons in terms of time and money. It's an interesting discussion. 3D printing is 'set and forget' while Hirst is a lot of steps. Having done both I think I might try to compare them and see what differences there are for those considering which way to go. I don't know if there will be a clear winner or not. I would surprised if there was. The Hirst vs Dwarven Forge ended up with "both have advantages and disadvantages" after it was all said and done.
The other printer has been chugging along just fine. I had planned on twice the output because I'd have twice the number of printers but that's life. I'm running it almost 24/7 and it hasn't complained.
Slowly but surely I'm getting the pieces I need for my new modular dungeon. They're all printed in grey so even if I can't paint them in time they won't look that bad on the table. I'd like to paint them if possible. I even ordered a big bottle of the primer I want to use with the airbrush when I ordered some other things during their pre-holiday sale. That bottle should easily cover the entire dungeon and then some.
I also set up the new print server for the new printer. I finally printed a case for it that attaches to the frame. My previous one was just kind of sitting on the table and I think I broke the power connection because it wasn't secure. I have to exchange the memory card and I think I'll give this a try as-is because the new case is really steady on the frame so the power cable won't move around much.
I haven't set up the cameras yet because I'm waiting for both printers to be in place so I can get it all in order. I have the lamps I wanted so there could be enough light for good time lapse videos and I think I know what camera stands I'll be printing. I may print out a sample of that to see if it needs adjusting or if it will work as designed. I also have to make sure that I have the proper length cables for them. So much to set up but then it's done.
I ordered spare parts for the printers and will be ordering more from the manufacturer when I get my board. I have to pay for the overseas postage anyway (unless they cover it for me, which would be acceptable) and the things I added didn't increase the cost. They're parts I may never need but if I do I can be up and running again soon. The ones from Amazon will be here in a few days. All this means is that I need a box I can put on the shelf under the printer.
The dungeon itself is looking quite good. At least the pieces are. I haven't tried to assemble any of it yet. Honestly I've been working on getting enough of them printed. 3D printing takes time. Just to print nine of the corner pieces takes 37 1/2 hours. Nine of the single walls take around 25 hours. Note that these are attached to floor tiles so that adds time. Printing nine floor tiles takes 12 hours. It all adds up.
Mind you I'm doing different levels of the pieces at different layer heights. The stuff that doesn't matter as much - the things that don't have a top surface - I'm printing at the thickest layers the printer nozzle will handle. But doing that on the flat, textured layers means they look terrible. So I change those to be very thin layers. Thinner layers means longer prints. I weighed it out and I'd rather spend the time up front and have pieces I like rather than go faster and be unhappy with how they look.
I'll do a post just on the dungeon setup itself when there's more to talk about. Right now it's all about printing the pieces that go into it. I may do the math at the end for how much time and how much filament went into making the pieces since that's kind of interesting.
There's been some discussion on how 3D printed dungeons compare to Hirst Arts dungeons in terms of time and money. It's an interesting discussion. 3D printing is 'set and forget' while Hirst is a lot of steps. Having done both I think I might try to compare them and see what differences there are for those considering which way to go. I don't know if there will be a clear winner or not. I would surprised if there was. The Hirst vs Dwarven Forge ended up with "both have advantages and disadvantages" after it was all said and done.
Saturday, December 15, 2018
3D Printer Woes
I'll do my best not to get into the technical weeds here.
I was upgrading my first printer to the 2.5 version. It's not a difficult upgrade (as far as upgrades go) and the Prusa site is really good with instructions. Except for one thing they made a video for some reason but I digress.
I had put it off for a while because I didn't have the table clear for the upgrade and the printer was working. But then the plastic cover on the print bed started getting damaged and I had this other, working, upgraded printer so my excuses ran thin.
Especially thin because I had cleared enough space to fix the second printer when I bought it and even did a minor R2 to R3 upgrade at the same time.
I went through the instructions and only have one thing where I screwed it up. It doesn't matter that one of the motors is rotated by 90 degrees. There's replacement motors that have to be rotated so the writing is sideways and the wiring isn't stretched. I won't even see it much.
When I had it back together I started to test and calibrate it. It didn't pass the second test. One of the fans wasn't working. It worked before the upgrade! And now it didn't work!
Thanks to help from some really smart people online I checked everything and it turns out there's no power going to the pins that connect the fan. This is bad. This is expensive. This means that the controller board had something go wrong. Since the box that houses it got replaced I did have to move the board around but I was darn careful.
After confirming that everything worked except the fan (that I can tell) I contacted support. My printer is out of warranty so the person on chat couldn't just send me a replacement board, even though it went bad during the upgrade I did buy and should be in warranty. However he said to send an email and they would see what they could do.
The really smart people are now suggesting that I see if there's a solder break between the connectors and the rest of the board. So that's what I'm going to do when I'm less clumsy than I'm feeling today. That means unplugging the nest of cables and taking the board out. The cables are more of an annoyance than the 4 screws holding the board. But there's a good chance I can simply touch the soldering iron to one of the pins and let the heat do the work to resolder the join.
Luckily I know how to solder. And also luckily I've got really smart people who are willing to talk me through things like how to use the multi meter to check if there's power going to the connection. This was my first time working inside a live system and didn't want to do anything bad since it's connected to power. That's one fear down. Or at least minimized now.
I'm also taking this time to reprint some of the parts because I printed the first set on the not-upgraded printer and I'm not happy with how some of the nuts and bolts fit into it. I did a test and think that the upgraded printer gives a better result. Those are printing now.
Yes. You print parts to use on the printer. Even the upgrade comes with one printed part (high temp plastic that most people don't print at home due to it being fussy and having fume issues) and a spool of the kind of plastic the rest of the parts need. The instructions have the link to the parts files. Which means you need a working printer (or a friend with one) to upgrade your printer. It's a little wacky.
The upshot of this is that the second printer I bought is still doing all the work and the first printer decided to hiccup while I was upgrading it. Since the board isn't working anyway I can't hurt much by trying to reconnect the fan pins with a soldering iron. And it makes me want to learn more so I can help other people fix their printers too.
I was upgrading my first printer to the 2.5 version. It's not a difficult upgrade (as far as upgrades go) and the Prusa site is really good with instructions. Except for one thing they made a video for some reason but I digress.
I had put it off for a while because I didn't have the table clear for the upgrade and the printer was working. But then the plastic cover on the print bed started getting damaged and I had this other, working, upgraded printer so my excuses ran thin.
Especially thin because I had cleared enough space to fix the second printer when I bought it and even did a minor R2 to R3 upgrade at the same time.
I went through the instructions and only have one thing where I screwed it up. It doesn't matter that one of the motors is rotated by 90 degrees. There's replacement motors that have to be rotated so the writing is sideways and the wiring isn't stretched. I won't even see it much.
When I had it back together I started to test and calibrate it. It didn't pass the second test. One of the fans wasn't working. It worked before the upgrade! And now it didn't work!
Thanks to help from some really smart people online I checked everything and it turns out there's no power going to the pins that connect the fan. This is bad. This is expensive. This means that the controller board had something go wrong. Since the box that houses it got replaced I did have to move the board around but I was darn careful.
After confirming that everything worked except the fan (that I can tell) I contacted support. My printer is out of warranty so the person on chat couldn't just send me a replacement board, even though it went bad during the upgrade I did buy and should be in warranty. However he said to send an email and they would see what they could do.
The really smart people are now suggesting that I see if there's a solder break between the connectors and the rest of the board. So that's what I'm going to do when I'm less clumsy than I'm feeling today. That means unplugging the nest of cables and taking the board out. The cables are more of an annoyance than the 4 screws holding the board. But there's a good chance I can simply touch the soldering iron to one of the pins and let the heat do the work to resolder the join.
Luckily I know how to solder. And also luckily I've got really smart people who are willing to talk me through things like how to use the multi meter to check if there's power going to the connection. This was my first time working inside a live system and didn't want to do anything bad since it's connected to power. That's one fear down. Or at least minimized now.
I'm also taking this time to reprint some of the parts because I printed the first set on the not-upgraded printer and I'm not happy with how some of the nuts and bolts fit into it. I did a test and think that the upgraded printer gives a better result. Those are printing now.
Yes. You print parts to use on the printer. Even the upgrade comes with one printed part (high temp plastic that most people don't print at home due to it being fussy and having fume issues) and a spool of the kind of plastic the rest of the parts need. The instructions have the link to the parts files. Which means you need a working printer (or a friend with one) to upgrade your printer. It's a little wacky.
The upshot of this is that the second printer I bought is still doing all the work and the first printer decided to hiccup while I was upgrading it. Since the board isn't working anyway I can't hurt much by trying to reconnect the fan pins with a soldering iron. And it makes me want to learn more so I can help other people fix their printers too.
Wednesday, December 12, 2018
Ok. Well. Kinda
I'm kinda back. I'm going to try to be back. How's that?
I'm more into 3D printing these days. I honestly haven't touched my Hirst Arts molds (except to send two of them out for an extended loan) in a long time. I haven't had a reason to build.
So the focus here will probably shift more towards 3D printing and miniature painting. It's not so much of a stretch since it was on Hirst Arts and miniature panting.
For the record I have an Original Prusa Mk2/S that's being crabby about being upgraded to the 2.5 version. But don't worry. I'll be telling you all about it soon enough.
I'm more into 3D printing these days. I honestly haven't touched my Hirst Arts molds (except to send two of them out for an extended loan) in a long time. I haven't had a reason to build.
So the focus here will probably shift more towards 3D printing and miniature painting. It's not so much of a stretch since it was on Hirst Arts and miniature panting.
For the record I have an Original Prusa Mk2/S that's being crabby about being upgraded to the 2.5 version. But don't worry. I'll be telling you all about it soon enough.
Friday, May 25, 2018
I'm Back!
Well. Let's see how long it lasts but for now I'm back. I took a hiatus while dealing with life issues. I still have life issues (and I'm not naming names but you should know who you are) but I'm also getting some stuff done so I might as well blog about it.
You won't hear about the life issues unless they DIRECTLY relate to my hobby stuff. And by 'directly' I mean intertwined or in some way integral to the post in question. I purged my blog of the personal posts when I moved it from my own site and I'm not interested in putting my private life on display. 'Nuff said about that.
I've moved into 3D printing a lot of stuff so be prepared to see that more than hand crafted things. Personally I think the market is glutted with the big name crafters so I'm not too worried I'm going to prevent people from learning anything new. If I do have tutorials they'll be hosted elsewhere and I'll link to them.
I do plan on going back and fixing all the broken picture links. They will either be the original pictures (when possible) or new ones as needed. Blogs about mini painting aren't very good without pictures. That's high on the priority list even if it is seriously tedious.
Unless there's interest I'm not going to go into the process of 3D printing. Maybe I'll make some kind of sticky post if this allows for it so the basics can be there for anyone to read. This isn't a blog about 3D printing. It's about miniatures, terrain, and gaming. 3D printing is a tool.
After I get pictures back in place I want to get current with what I'm doing. I have a lot of things backed up and haven't been doing much hobby work for far too long. That happened because reasons. I still have reasons not to do it. I have reasons to do it. But I'm doing enough that it currently makes sense to start blogging again.
Now about that 3D printing thing. I will be showing non-gaming things that I print if I find there's a reason for doing so. I will mark the posts as such for those who want to skip them.
But hey. I'm back!
You won't hear about the life issues unless they DIRECTLY relate to my hobby stuff. And by 'directly' I mean intertwined or in some way integral to the post in question. I purged my blog of the personal posts when I moved it from my own site and I'm not interested in putting my private life on display. 'Nuff said about that.
I've moved into 3D printing a lot of stuff so be prepared to see that more than hand crafted things. Personally I think the market is glutted with the big name crafters so I'm not too worried I'm going to prevent people from learning anything new. If I do have tutorials they'll be hosted elsewhere and I'll link to them.
I do plan on going back and fixing all the broken picture links. They will either be the original pictures (when possible) or new ones as needed. Blogs about mini painting aren't very good without pictures. That's high on the priority list even if it is seriously tedious.
Unless there's interest I'm not going to go into the process of 3D printing. Maybe I'll make some kind of sticky post if this allows for it so the basics can be there for anyone to read. This isn't a blog about 3D printing. It's about miniatures, terrain, and gaming. 3D printing is a tool.
After I get pictures back in place I want to get current with what I'm doing. I have a lot of things backed up and haven't been doing much hobby work for far too long. That happened because reasons. I still have reasons not to do it. I have reasons to do it. But I'm doing enough that it currently makes sense to start blogging again.
Now about that 3D printing thing. I will be showing non-gaming things that I print if I find there's a reason for doing so. I will mark the posts as such for those who want to skip them.
But hey. I'm back!
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